There are four factors (Four Cs) that contribute most to the value and look of a diamond. These are:
Cut Color Clarity Carat
CUT refers to the proportions, symmetry and finish of a polished diamond. To get from the raw diamond to the cut gemstone requires the skilled hand of a master cutter. The better the CUT proportions, the better the diamond handles light to create sparkle. Therefore CUT is the single most important factor affecting a diamond's sparkle, brilliance and visual fire as illustrated with the following diagrams for a round brilliant-cut stone:
Deep Cut Diamond
Shallow Cut Diamond
Well Cut Diamond
The sad fact is, 75% of all rounds and 88% of all other shapes on the market are poorly proportioned to retain carat weight rather to maximise sparkle.
A well-cut diamond loses more of the rough diamond than deep or shallow cuts as illustrated below.
COLOR The diamond color grading scale varies from totally colorless to light yellow. The differences between one diamond color grade and another are very subtle and difficult to distinguish.
D-F : Colorless: perfect or almost perfect color.
G-J : Near colorless: good to very good color, and this diamond may "face up" colorless when mounted, especially in white gold or platinum.
K-M : Light but noticeable yellow or brown tint. Not recommended for larger diamond stone purchases, especially in engagement rings.
Out of the 4 C's, color and cut are the two most important characteristics of a diamond. Do not compromise on color. An "H" color or better is usually best.
CLARITY is a measure of a diamond's internal flaws and impurities. A diamond that is virtually free of interior or exterior inclusions (commonly referred to as flaws) is of the highest quality, for nothing interferes with the passage of light through the diamond. To determine a diamond's clarity, it is viewed under 10x magnification by a trained gemologist. Small inclusions neither mar its beauty nor endanger its durability.
Flawless - No internal or external flaws.
Internally Flawless - No internal flaws. Very rare and beautiful diamonds which are quite expensive.
VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see inclusions under 10x agnification. An excellent quality diamond.
VS1, VS2 - Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are typically not visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades. Even properly graded VS2 diamonds can have visible inclusions in very large sizes or diamonds that do not have many facets which make flaws more visible such as an emerald shape.
SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions are typically visible under 10x magnification, SI clarity diamonds are usually of the best value since inclusions are not always visible to the naked eye and prices are reasonable when compared to prices of the VS2 clarity and up grades. Some SI clarity diamonds do have visible inclusions and should be evaluated carefully.
SI3 - Slightly Included-Included: SI3 is an EGL grade and is not recognized by GIA or other gemological institutions. The SI3 clarity grade has been adopted by other labs as well. Typically an SI3 clarity grade would usually be given an I1 grade by the GIA.
I1 - Included: an I1 clarity diamond will have a visible flaw which can be seen with the naked eye, but there should only be one major flaw which is not too obvious. Overall the diamond should still look nice however I1 clarity grades vary quite a bit so one should be very careful when making a selection. If your budget only allows for an SI3 or I1 clarity diamond, be sure to examine it thoroughly before purchasing and make sure the inclusions do not detract from the overall beauty of the diamond.
I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds will have inclusions visible to the naked eye, and will have many black spots from the black inclusions and/or appear very cloudy or milky from the white inclusions, feathers and cracks.
CARAT weight is the weight of the diamond measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 "points," so that a diamond of 75 points weighs 0.75 carats. Carat weight is the most obvious factor in determining the value of a diamond.
1 carat round shape diamond is 6.5mm on average, a 1 carat princess shape diamond is often 5.5mm instead.
Since diamonds are measured by carat weight, and not size, two diamonds of the same weight could have different sizes. Why? If a diamond is cut too shallow it will have a larger diameter but a smaller depth. Likewise, if a diamond is cut too deep (or bottom heavy) it will have a smaller diameter and thus appear smaller when viewed from the top.
Cut is very important. A properly cut diamond will both yield a good face up size and sparkle well. For example, let's say you're interested in a 1.00ct round diamond. A poorly cut diamond that is bottom heavy may only have a diameter of say 6.1mm. So not only are you short changed on the face up size, but you get a diamond that was not cut to it’s full potential and thus does not sparkle like it should.
Diamond care
To maintain the sparkle of your diamond jewellery it is a good idea to carefully wipe your diamond jewellery with a soft chamois or flannel cloth after each wearing to remove oils and salts. The only material that can break a diamond is another diamond so if you are not wearing your diamond jewellery you should store each item of jewellery separately to prevent scratching with other pieces as well as breaking.
The easiest way to ensure you diamond jewellery remains sparkling with brilliance is to clean your diamonds on a regular basis. The most eye catching part of a diamond is its sparkle no matter whether it is set in a ring, bracelet, necklace, earrings or a pendant. To clean your diamond jewellery there are four popular methods wghich are commonly used. If you do not wish to clean your own diamond jewellery you can always take your diamond jewellery to your local jeweller to be cleaned.
Four ways to clean your diamonds:
1. Detergent bath: Prepare a small bowl of warm suds with any kind of mild liquid detergent. Brush the jewellery with a small soft brush creating a lather. Place the piece on a wire strainer and rinse with warm water. Pat dry with a soft lint free cloth.
2. Cold Water Soak: Mix a small bowl of solution with 5 parts water to 1 part household ammonia. Soak the item for several minutes, lift the item out of the solution and tap gently around the item with a small soft brush. Rinse the item in the solution again and drain on a piece of tissue paper
3. Quick-Dip Method: Buy a liquid jewellery cleaner, be careful to choose the cleaner which is best for your diamonds. Read the label carefully and follow the instructions. Be careful not to touch your clean diamonds with your fingers, handle the piece by its edges.
4. The Ultrasonic Cleaner: There are several types of these small machines available in the market. They will clean any piece of jewellery that can be soaked in a liquid within minutes. They are comprised of a metal cup, which you fill with water and detergent. When the machine is turned on, a high-frequency turbulence is created. Please read the machines instructions prior to use.
The most traditional shape is the round brilliant diamond. This is the choice of many and the first image that comes to mind when diamonds and diamond rings come to mind. Only the masterful skill of the diamond cutter can attempt the transformation that the raw diamond crystal goes through. From raw material to incredible and unique.
Round Brilliant - This is the shape that has set the traditional standard for all diamond shapes. Over 75% of the diamonds sold today are Round Brilliant. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.
Oval - This is a symmetrical design which is even and appeals to many small handed women seemingly elongating hands and fingers.
Marquise - This shape is elongated with pointed ends. The smile of the Marquise de Pompadour inspired this shape which was then commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is beautiful as a solitaire or when matched with smaller complimentry diamonds.
Pear - This cut combines the best between the oval and marquise shapes. It is the hybrid shape that looks like a sparkling teardrop. It beautifully compliments the average size hand and fingers. It is gorgeous for pendants and earings.
Heart - A pear shaped diamond with a cleft on the top. The extraordinary skill of the cutter determines the beauty of this cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.
Emerald - This shape is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. Arectangular shape with cut corners. Inclusions and inferior color can be more pronounced in this particular cut. So clarity and color should be looked at carefully and time taken when a choice is made.
Princess - This is a square rectangular shape with many facets. This is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. It is attractive with longer fingers. This cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.
Radiant - This is a square or rectangular shape. The elegance of the emerald and the brilliance of the round shape marks this cut. 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon. It requires this depth because of its cut and 70 facets.
Asschert -This beautifully unique shape is nearly identical to the emerald-cut, except that it is square. Also, this shape has a pavilion that is cut with rectangular facets in the same style as the emerald-cut. If you choose SI-clarity be sure to view the clarity plot on the diamond certificate, because this shape highlights the clarity of the diamond. When choosing a color grade, consider that while the price of a J-color non-round diamond is exceptional, color may be slightly visible in its corners.
Circumference in (mm)
CDN / U.S
(Size)
U.K.
(Size)
46.5
4
H 1/2
48
4 1/2
I 1/2
49
5
J 1/2
50.5
5.1/2
L
52
6
M
53
6 1/2
N
54.5
7
O
55.5
7 1/2
P
57
8
Q
58
8 1/2
Q 1/2
59.5
9
R 1/2
61
9 1/2
S 1/2
62
10
T 1/2
63.5
10 1/2
U 1/2
64.5
11
V 1/2
66
11 1/2
W 1/2
67.5
12
Y
68.5
12 1/2
Z
70
13
Z+1
71
13 1/2
Z+2
72.5
14
Z+3
74
14 1/2
Z+4
75
15
Z+5
Gold color is created by mixing in other various elements with gold to create a gold alloy with various colors. No matter which gold color is created, the pure gold is always present in the correct percentage. For example, 18K gold will always have 75% pure gold contained in the jewelry, while the rest of the alloy colors can be altered to create a different color. One color for example is the popular white gold. It is created by mixing in nickel to give it a whiter appearance. For more information regarding the percentages and elements used, see the chart below.
Commonly used alloys for Yellow Gold,White Gold and Rose Gold
% Composition
Au Gold
Ag Silver
Cu Copper
Zn Zinc
Ni Nickel
Ti Titanium
Pd Palladium
Fe Iron
Si Silicon
B Boron
Co Cobalt
Yellow Gold
23 karat
99.0*
0.8-1.0
18 karat
75.00
13.00
12.00
75.00
15.00
10.00
14 karat
58.33
4.00
31.24
6.43
0.10
0.05
0.01
58.33
24.78
26.75
0.14
10 karat
41.70
11.66
40.81
5.83
0.03
0.02
41.70
5.50
43.80
9.00
White Gold
18 karat
75.00
2.23
5.47
17.80
18 karat **
75.00
15.00
10.00
14 karat
58.33
28.32
4.80
8.55
14 karat **
58.33
32.17
9.50
10 karat
41.66
29.15
12.12
15.05
1.97
10 karat **
41.70
47.42
0.88
10.00
Rose Gold
18 karat
75.00
5.00
20.00
14 karat
58.33
2.08
39.59
10 karat
41.70
2.82
55.48
* Represents minimum
** Experimental, nickel-free
Pure gold is so soft it can not withstand the abrasions of everyday wear. As a result gold is often alloyed with other metals to give it strength and durability. Common alloy metals are silver, copper, nickel, zinc and at times platinum or palladium. The amount of pure gold in an alloy is stated as either its karat or its fineness. The karat of a gold alloy is stated as the number of parts of pure gold out of 24. The fineness is stated as the number of parts of pure gold out of 1000. To give an example: 14k gold is fourteen parts pure gold and ten parts other metals for a total of 24 parts. The same 14k alloy may also be described by its fineness of 585 or five hundred and eighty five parts pure gold and four hundred and fifteen parts other metals for a total of 1000 parts, or approximately 58% gold
Karat Grade
For gold, karat grade is used to express the proportion of gold in an alloy or the quality of a gold alloy. Fine gold (pure) is 24 karat. The proportions in other karat are listed in the table below.
All jewelry is required by law to be stamped so consumers will know the quality of gold used. Jewelry made in North America is typically marked with the karat grade (10K, 14K, etc.), and jewelry made in Italy is typically marked with the "fineness" such as (417, 583, etc.). So if your jewelry does not have a karat grade stamped on it, check for a 3-digit fineness number.
To maintain the sparkle of your diamond jewellery it is a good idea to carefully wipe your diamond jewellery with a soft chamois or flannel cloth after each wearing to remove oils and salts. The only material that can break a diamond is another diamond so if you are not wearing your diamond jewellery you should store each item of jewellery separately to prevent scratching with other pieces as well as breaking.
